Kennedy's secret textile ties: a hidden partnership revealed
Jacqueline Kennedy’s impeccable style wasn’t just a matter of inherited taste; it was meticulously crafted, and a key element of that vision lay in the hands of an unlikely collaborator: the Tillett textile firm.
A designer's deep dive: the untold story of kennedy's fabrics
Newly unearthed letters between Jacqueline Kennedy and D.D. and Leslie Tillett offer a rare and intimate look into the creative process behind some of the most iconic interiors of the 1960s. Far more than just suppliers, the Tilletts became trusted partners, shaping not only the fabrics adorning the White House and Kennedy’s personal residences, but also her wardrobe – a testament to a woman who approached every aspect of her life with a discerning eye.
Founded in the 1940s, Tillett Textiles quickly gained recognition for its hand-screened fabrics and bespoke design approach, attracting prominent decorators like Sister Parish and Albert Hadley. It was Parish’s initial connection with Kennedy that brought the Tilletts to the forefront of the First Lady’s design circle. Seth Tillett, the youngest son of D.D. and Leslie, recounts how Kennedy’s involvement was remarkably hands-on. “Ideas often began with Parish looking through the Tilletts’ swatches and samples,” he explained, “sometimes with Kennedy or Hadley present.”
From white house to greece: a pattern of influence
The famed ‘Jackie’s Daisy’ motif – instantly recognizable from the 1961 White House renovation – exemplifies this dynamic. Born from a collaboration between Parish, Hadley, and the Tilletts, the design seamlessly blended Kennedy’s interest in historical preservation with Parish’s American country aesthetic and the Tilletts’ adaptable fabrics. But the influence extended far beyond Washington. Letters reveal Kennedy’s continued use of Tillett fabrics at her Hyannis Port home and even in her Greek residences, incorporating patterns like ‘Chrysanthemum’ into her personal wardrobe.
Perhaps most strikingly, the partnership extended to a pioneering Black-owned design studio, the Design Works of Bedford-Stuyvesant in Brooklyn. Kennedy’s support, documented in a 1969 letter praising the project as “the most impressive thing I have ever seen,” fueled its growth and provided a platform for African-inspired design and local artistic talent. This initiative, backed by Senator Robert F. Kennedy, underscored Kennedy’s commitment to social progress, beautifully interwoven with her design sensibilities.
The relationship reached a poignant conclusion in 1986, when the Tilletts designed custom tablecloths for Caroline Kennedy’s wedding. Kennedy’s subsequent note expressed profound gratitude, stating, “No one could possibly have created anything more perfect.” These letters, now available through the Tillett Family, offer an unprecedented glimpse into a decades-long connection – a testament to the power of collaboration and the enduring legacy of a true style icon.