Villa san michele: florence's renaissance retreat reborn
Few arrivals in Europe deliver the visceral thrill of Villa San Michele. The winding ascent through the Fiesole hills builds anticipation, but nothing quite prepares you for the arched façade of this historic Franciscan convent, and the breathtaking panorama of Florence unfolding before you – a scene worthy of a Gozzoli masterpiece, bathed in Tuscan light.
A delicate revival of history
After an 18-month renovation overseen by Luigi Fragola Architects, this 600-year-old Belmond property has reopened, revealing a space that honors its storied past while embracing modern sensibilities. The challenge, as it always is with such venerable structures, was to refresh without erasing the soul. Thankfully, the architects succeeded admirably.
The layout, a legacy of the villa’s monastic origins, had long presented a navigational puzzle. Now, a redesigned reception area, flowing seamlessly from the former church, offers a more intuitive welcome. The parlors of the old convent are softened with scagliola tables, frescoed panels, and plush brocaded seating, creating an atmosphere of understated elegance. The old refectory has been transformed into a spectacular breakfast room, dominated by Nicodemo Ferrucci’s 17th-century fresco of The Last Supper and Leandro Erlich’s whimsical glass-fronted cloud cabinet – a delightful juxtaposition of the sacred and the surreal.
The suites, particularly the Limonaia, arranged over two stories with a private plunge pool, are a testament to Tuscan craftsmanship. Floors of Impruneta terracotta, Cipollino marble bathrooms, and bespoke carpentry create a palpable sense of place, while hand-painted murals and botanical studies add individual character to each room.
Gardens, wellness, and culinary delights
Beyond the interiors, the gardens remain the heart of the Villa San Michele experience. Spanning over 10,000 square meters, they’ve been meticulously reworked to enhance their original structure and fragrance. A visit in late spring is a sensory explosion – roses bloom alongside wisteria, with lavender, rosemary, and citrus perfuming the air.
The wellness focus is equally compelling. The new Spa by Guerlain offers bespoke treatments inspired by Florentine heritage, while a collaboration with JJ Martin of La DoubleJ introduces a holistic “Energy Raising Programme,” complete with an open-air yoga deck and an energy chapel where crystal bowls harmonize with birdsong. It’s a far cry from the typical spa experience, and all the more welcome for it.
And then there’s the food. Executive Chef Alessandro Cozzolino’s new restaurant, Antesi, set within a 16th-century loggia, centers on seasonality and timing, serving ingredients at their peak. The three tasting menus are a love letter to the region, showcasing dishes like Costoluto – a deceptively simple pasta creation that highlights the purity of local ingredients.
Villa San Michele isn’t merely a hotel; it’s an immersion in the beauty and history of Florence. The view, of course, remains unparalleled. But it’s the subtle details – the restored trails winding through the woodland where Leonardo da Vinci reportedly experimented with flight, the scent of lavender on the breeze, the quiet serenity that pervades every corner – that truly elevate this property.
The result is a hotel that understands its strengths and amplifies them, offering a Florentine escape that is both timeless and utterly captivating.